Milan Fashion Week: Miuccia Prada's clothes speak for themselves

Milan Fashion Week: Miuccia Prada's clothes speak for themselves
Prada's intentions are frequently illuminating and always fascinating, but her work is complex enough to see your own truth and story in it
I’ve been told by enough designers that time is luxury. I think thats why people are creating things that take up so much of the damn stuff, because its the only thing that’s really worth anything when previously precious materials have been commonplace, and now just common, and good design is all too frequently taking a back seat to churning out money-making stuff. So I took my time writing this, despite braving the ritualistic hurtling of press backstage to find out as fast as humanly possibly what has made Miuccia Prada’s brain whirr over the past six months. It is a rush like no other because Prada is one of fashion’s great thinkers, and this is the one chance to hear straight from her what she intended us to see. It’s also a rush because Mrs Prada shows at 6pm of a Thursday evening in Milan, so editors fling themselves at their keyboards to make the European newspaper deadlines. No time you see. No luxury.

I enjoy the scrabble. It’s not something I do all that often, at shows - but it’s worth it there. That’s because Miuccia Prada always has exciting, interesting notions, which maybe gel with what you saw in the show, but perhaps jar. I always think a Prada show is a bit like a fashion Rorschach test. It’s more a measure of you than her, to see if you see what you’re supposed to see, and if you like it or not.

However, I also like to make up my own mind about Prada. Her intentions are frequently illuminating and always fascinating, but her work is complex enough to see your own truth and story in it. It’s open for interpretation, rather than the homogeny of eighties, seventies, hippy or goth offered by other designers, superficial references sliding across the surface. Mrs Prada’s ideas are embedded, ingrained in her clothing. Everyone will unpick them differently. Think of it as a theoretical essay - Prada: discuss.

In pictures: Milan Fashion Week spring/summer 2016
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This time, however, Miuccia Prada wasn’t there to see her own show, due to a family bereavement. There are some things bigger than fashion, even when you are one of its defining figures. Mrs Prada left the design studio at midnight the day before the show, and the thronging crowds backstage were met not by she, but by a he: Fabio Zambernardi, design director of both Prada and Miu Miu. He’s generally a behind-the-scenes type - a few members of the press, the same ones who push into Mrs Prada’s face for answers every season, later asked me his surname, which illustrates quite how unknown he is.

Zambernardi did Mrs Prada proud in deciphering the meaning of this show - he talked about subverting classics, about the bubbly transparent organza jackets and skirts being like the memory or idea of a garment, rather than its concrete physicality. Layered over other more substantial garments, they leant them a mirage-like ethereal quality. Chopped-up scraps of millinery veiling were pasted against the models’ necks; the organza stuff felt like veils over the clothes too, blurring hemlines and outlines. It felt a little like a curator explaining the intentions of an artist as we wandered about their gallery opening.

Forget classics, and ghosts of garments, and all those suits - although the return of the latter, in the wake of the Conservative victory and a Right Wing wave across Europe, is a fascinating example of fashion reflecting political upheaval. What’s more conservative than a neatly matching skirt-suit, lines of patchwork straight and narrow?

I never think of Prada’s clothes as straight and narrow - the former especially evident in her menswear’s sly, transgressive sexuality. And no-one’s reach, nor mind, is broader in fashion than Mrs Prada’s. Except, possibly, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons, although i feel Kawakubo has distanced herself from the fashion world - and even clothing - in recent seasons. Mrs Prada, by contrast, is at its beating heart.

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What are my other takes on these clothes? How about the primacy of line, the idea of the simple, even primitive gesture of marking a horizontal or vertical, which was the foundation of both illustration and language in prehistoric times. The martingales splicing Mrs Prada’s jackets at the back were horizontal, all that patching vertical, her tweeds in prince-of-wales checks, like cross-hatching across the body. Those veils were criss-cross checkers too, come to think of it. The print, on organza coats and skirts, looked like parallel lines of matchsticks. Then the embroidery, the glorious, scribbled flowers in pailettes spilling out of the collection’s predominantly narrow silhouettes. Mrs Prada colouring outside her own lines. They looked luxurious, and like they took a long, long time. They clattered loudly as the models took their turns below curving panes of plastic, like blown up palettes themselves.

There were also absolutely no trousers. So maybe straight and narrow was indeed a key notion - the inherently feminine, archetypes of female fashionability, the fifties hat veiling, the exaggerated earrings, the gilded lips, the industrial heels, like court shoes with their trappings stripped away to expose their innards. Combine that with those ghost garments and there was an idea of looking inward, examining the construction of the feminine ideal, debunking the mystique. It felt not like the volte-face Prada normally explores, but a further extrapolation on the genetically-modified femininity of Prada’s winter collection. That collection was about what women wanted, a notion Mrs Prada told me she was fascinated by. The odd machination of desire, which is the very reason the fashion industry exists, a business devoted to convincing us all we need to buy a new jacket (here, in stripes, with those big fat martingales) when we all already own so many.

Mrs Prada, ultimately, didn’t need to be here to talk to us. Because her clothes speak for themselves.

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But after decades of completely ignoring overweight women in fashion, film and music, Ashley believes that the tide is finally changing thanks to more and more women speaking out about their needs being ignored.

She has just launched her own 19-piece lingerie range for plus-sized online retailer Navabi, with bras starting at 36DD and going up to 44E.

With the average British woman in the UK now a size 16, Ashley hopes we are seeing an end to a clothing market focused solely on the perfect size ten.
Ashley wants more fashion houses to use curvy models so that the general public can see themselves represented on TV and in magazines
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Ashley wants more fashion houses to use curvy models so that the general public can see themselves represented on TV and in magazines

She said: 'To see the changes in this industry is phenomenal and I'm excited to see where it's going.

'I really feel that curves are in and everything that I do on Instagram is #curvesarein.

'(As plus size models) we go on the runway castings as much as we can for the high end designers that have never done plus-size before.

'And for the beauty adverts - just because I'm plus-size doesn't mean that I can't do a beauty or hair campaign.

'I was on the cover of Elle at the beginning of the year, I have done some editorial for Harpers Bazaar and I'm in Love Magazine and Miss Vogue right now, so it's happening.

'That's when you know the industry is changing.'

Often, change starts with prominent public figures taking a stand and Ashley believes that British singer Adele is one of the stars that have really helped push the cause of curvy women in the western world.
Although Ashley is larger than your average model, she maintains a healthy and active lifestyle
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Although Ashley is larger than your average model, she maintains a healthy and active lifestyle

She said: 'With Adele, people aren't looking at her and saying that's a big girl who can sing, they're just saying that's Adele.

'But it's still something lingering over people's minds.

'Melissa McCartney is still only cast for big girl roles - I think that there is still that struggle in TV and film but she is still getting very high-profile roles.'

However, there is still most of the work to be done,in the last two Fashion weeks - during February this year and the most recent one last month - Ashley maintains that all of the big fashion houses did not want to use anybody plus-size on their catwalks.

She said: 'In February's fashion week and this fashion week, no high end designers wanted to use plus-size.

'There was a backlash - they saw us and they thought we were great, but they also said they were't ready to work with us yet.
Over years of working in fashion, Ashley Graham has worked out how to dress to best flatter her figure
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Although Ashley enjoys accentuating her hourglass figure, she also likes to wear slouchy clothes
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Over years of working in fashion, Ashley Graham has worked out how to dress to best flatter her figure - she enjoys both accentuating her hourglass figure (left) and wearing slouchy clothes (right)

'So while they see the curves and the plus-size, there aren't any high end designers putting curves on the catwalk yet.

'But things are going to be changing soon, the fact that they are open to seeing plus-size models at castings - that's a big deal.'

Ashley is most concerned about pushing through a change because she believes is is something that normal women need to see - plus-size women being admired and welcomed by the media and fashion - in order to feel good about themselves.

She said: 'I think seeing plus-size women on catwalks gives normal women confidence by knowing that there are actually people their size.

'They want to see themselves in the magazine - whether they are 13 or 45, they want to see someone representing them on a billboard, in a magazine or in a campaign.
Ashley Graham at Navabi, Padded bra, ￡39
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Ashley Graham for Navabi bra collection left to right: Padded bra, ￡39, Non-padded Full Coverage bra, ￡39, pearl bra, ￡39, lace bra, ￡39. Bra sizes range from 36DD to 44E
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Ashley Graham for Navabi  pants collection, each ￡17

'It's important for women to see body diversity in the community reflected in the media and you can tell it's wanted.'

'I have talked to multiple girls in different high schools with some other plus-size models, I also just went to a weight loss camp in upstate New York and it was really interesting because there were girls from a US size six (UK 10) and some as a US size 22 (UK 26).

'These girls couldn't believe that there were these models who were plus-size, who were excited about their curves and who were in the media.
Wholesale Womens Cheap Summer Dresses Online Store Wholesale Cheap Sexy Women Tight-fitting Bodysuit/Pants/Dresses Outlet Online Wholesale Sexy Cheap Jumpsuits & Rompers For Women 'They don't know that it exists and they were excited and they said to us, 'Thank you for making me feel so incredible about my body.

'I don't have role models like this but you have created one for me.'
ASHLEY'S TIPS FOR DRESSING A PLUS-SIZE FIGURE:

Dress for your body type - trends don't necessarily matter

Buy classic pieces that you can wear in five or six years time - your wardrobe will grow immensely

Be confident to show off your hourglass figure

If you feel good in an outfit then it shows - Ashley would rather be half an hour late than not feel good in what she's wearing for the day

'To have 13,14 and 15-year-old girls say this was so nice and it really makes me want to do something about the fashion industry.'

And while Ashley is full of positivity about women embracing their bodies, the model maintains that she is extremely anti-overeating.

Over the years, being a plus-size model has made her a figurehead for the anti-fat brigade, with people accusing her of making the world an unhealthier place by promoting curvy bodies.

She said: 'I absolutely hate that. To the people who say I am pro-obesity, I laugh in their face.

'I am pro-health and I am pro-diversity.

'If you look on my Instagram page, you can see that I work out constantly and I have a workout video coming out that shows you how to work out and keep your curves.

'I work out three-four days a week but I can modify my eating to kind of what I want, I also like green juices and healthy salads.

'I just happen to be big boned and have an extra layer of meat on me.'

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